Back from a little weekend in Belgium. Can't believe that weekend trips in Holland are to Belgium, Germany, and Denmark, versus weekend trips in TX are Corpus Christi and San Antonio.
So we took off for Bruges Friday morning at about 9 AM and arrived at around noon. Xander, as a good Dutchman, has on our trip (and beforehand) filled me in on the Belgian temperament, which is "stupid". And also, the country is slightly more dirty than Holland, he warns me.
After picking up a couple of maps en route, realizing that we don't really know where we are going (Katie, we weren't the only ones--remember VT?), along with a coffee (was buoyed to find out that gas-station coffee is SHITE the world over), we cross the border into Belgium. Exciting for me, of course. But I must say that the quality of the roads did not immediately plummet, but simply became a little less well-finished and the signage became poor.
And we somehow found a perfect entrance to Bruges and the perfectly-situated parking garage, which was only €8 for 24 hours! This sort of thing is still exciting for me, as I know that in Manhattan you would pay €8 (ok, $12) for 35 seconds. At any rate, we stared at what we were convinced was either the Markt or the Burg for a good 10 minutes trying to find it on the map.
Then realized, after walking up a street, that it was neither. Funny how you can make things be what you want them to be. Our first stop was for some frites from a cafe with a takeaway window, which is a Belgian phenomenon that I am a big fan of. Waffles to go, broodjes to go, frites to go! Does it get better than that? No, my friends. It does not.
So, some frites, then off to the Groeningemuseum to look at some Flemish Primitives: Jan Van Eyck, Roger Van der Weyden, Hans Memling, Gerard David. Good stuff. After enough Madonna and Childs to make one a bit cross-eyed, we headed off for to check out the Burg and the Markt, and pick up the first of many chocolates consumed in Belgium.
Afterwards, we had an overpriced beer in a touristy cafe overlooking the Markt, as I was itching for a Belgian brew. This one happened to be the Brugse Tripel, and got us nice and buzzed before we headed back to the car to pick up our bag (yes, one bag: Xander brought his big fancy backpack and I didn't have to carry anything. Isn't that nice?!!) and find the hotel.
We were staying in a place called The Passage. Now, those of you who have traveled with me (Katie) know that I have a systematic way of booking hotels. I cross-reference travel guides with TripAdvisor.com and Expedia and any other number of sites. So I did this, and frankly the TripAdvisor reviews were sketcy for the Passage. But I booked it anyway: €60 with breakfast and Bruges is so busy in the summer it was near impossible to find anything else. Well, turns out it was okay, but it did smell like a stinky fart (as opposed to a loud one with no smell) in the hallway. And you had to press the shower button to get it to flow repeatedly. But I guess that is what you get for €60 in high tourist season in small medieval cities. But who cares, right, when you are with a cute boy like Xander? And anyway, the beer combined with the 4500 chocolate truffles filled with liqueor had us a little tipsy and relatively uncaring about our accomodations. So after getting gussied up for dinner, we headed to a little place called De Koetse, where we ate the best mussels and frites I have ever had. Really. And some fish soup to start, yum. The service was a tad lacking, but again, we didn't care after an irish coffee for dessert.
(FYI: they speak Flemish in Bruges, which is basically the same as Dutch. Xander explained it like English spoken in the USA and English spoken in England. Like the Dutch is the USA English.)
So off to the oldest cafe in Bruges, Herberg Vlissinghe.
It was a good 15 minute walk, and of course I was wearing heels, a great choice tipsy and on cobbled streets. We had the only beer "legally brewed" (whatever that means) in Bruges, Bruges Zot. It was very yummy, and the bar really cool--lots of locals. Reminded me of a bar Katie and I went to in Glasgow where the locals befriended us and I fell in love with Scotch. When we left, we realized that we were on Blekerstraat, and wondered if that was the original "Bleecker Street" that inspired the one in NYC?!! Wouldn't that be cool?
And of course it was raining, even easier to walk in heels on cobbles and a little drunker. So we get home (wet) and decide it's an awesome idea to have yet another beer at a little joint down the street from our hotel. But it was a good idea, because the bar has a fire burning! Yes, friends, in most countries in the Northern Hemisphere, it is summer in July. But not in the "Benelux" countries, no! We burn fires here and wear jackets in July!
Somehow we stumble 10 yards to our hotel and pass out.
The next day we eat a paltry breakfast in the cafe that is part of the hotel, but it is very cozy in there, I must say.
And we head for Brussels.
Monday, July 30, 2007
Saturday, July 28, 2007
We miss you!
Not to guilt you into coming back home, but I thought you'd like to see some of these. Awwww.....ok, maybe a little guilt...
Monday, July 23, 2007
Toilets
So I'm reading this hilarious book called "My 'Dam Life" which is about this guy who moved to Amsterdam for three years with his wife and details his encounters with the Dutch. It is really funny, as is anything about cultural differences, but one of the many things that it drew my attention to was the Dutch toilet.
I'm not one for really focusing on the content of the toilet once one has used it, but I did notice that the Dutch toilet has what the book calls an "inspection shelf" upon which one's, ahem, waste sits prior to the flushing action. So as to provide an environment for, well, inspection. Interesting, no? Or, perhaps, as my mum said, revolting.
So I commented on this to Xander, who laughed heartily and said, yes, he didn't notice it really until the US, where we certainly do not even discuss bowel movements, thank you very much, much less actually look at them. Unless you are Al Bundy or Homer Simpson.
Today, Xander and I went into the city centre to run some errands, one of which was to pick up some "manly tools", as Xander puts it, for a couple of projects in the apartment. When we get home, he completes one successfully, and the other involves unscrewing the base of the toilet and caulking around the bottom. I hear a loud crack during this process and a loud expletive in English, one that begins with F and ends with K. The toilet, it seems, has lost a piece of porcelain. So off to the hardware store to purchase a new one. And this time Xander came home with a "deep flow" toilet, a la USA! How nice not to have to look at the product of my very efficient digestive system.
That project has morphed into a bit of a monster, and is still ongoing as I write this. But in his usual good-natured manner, Xander is doing it with a smile, with only the occasional uttering of his favorite English swear word.
So this weekend was lots of fun, mostly laying around (yes, watching the Discovery Channel and History Channel), cooking, some running.
We went out to meet some of his friends in Spijkenisse for some beers, and that was actually a ton of fun. Of course, Xander and I laughed the whole time, and I had fun chatting to his friends, too, who are amused most of all when I make fun of my ineptitude when it comes to pronouncing the Dutch g, pronounced "khay" with that sound that sounds like you have something stuck in your throat, a similar sound to the one in French which has evaded me since I've tried to say "Francais".
Sunday we went out again, as Xander is off work for a bit. We met Sander and Camilla again, and a couple of other friends, one of whom was this guy who immediately showed contempt for America and Americans. I was trying to ignore it, and simply discuss his feelings with him, but it was getting tiresome and the beer was flowing. So I said something to Xander, like the guy couldn't hear it across the table, and of course he did, and I felt like shit that I couldn't keep my big mouth shut as usual and just simply let him vent. He so wanted to find fault with everything, and I should have let him. It's only ignorance and small-mindedness that allows him to think this way. I mean, he's a HUGE South Park and Simpsons fan. I know those shows are a little disparaging about, well, everything, but they are American, after all. It was just frustrating. It's hard enough being in a new place with no friends or job or connection except for your boyfriend, who is in fact amazing, but you do feel sort of without a net sometimes. And you don't speak the language, etc etc, and you're just tired of this holier-than-thou attitude about America. I mean, yeah, I don't agree with what is going on now, and the war is completely out of control, and we were lied to about Iraq when we were most vulnerable, and I am one of the majority of Americans who want things to change. But I also know that, for example, the Dutch in the 17th century were running around enslaving people, trading spices, blowing up warships, etc. No one is free from blame. And it's okay to disagree with policies and to voice that disagreement, but don't take it out on a single person, the first time you meet her, and keep at her for an hour and a half. You know?
Ok, enough ranting. But I must say, he was the first Dutch person who has acted anything but friendly (if we understand one another, which is a whole other story) to me, so it's not like I feel unwelcome. I just think it made me think about how I react to people like that, that I should simply not let it bother me. I'm working on it!! One day at a time.
Really looking forward to Belgium this weekend, Xander and I are headed to Bruges on Friday and Brussels on Saturday. I am hoping to gain 5 pounds. Beer, beer, beer, chocolate, moules frites, etc etc. Come on! It's like the European version of New Orleans for me: all of my favorite foods in one place. If you call beer a food. Which I do. We may go to this National Park on Wednesday of this week, with the Kruller-Moller (I think that's the name) museum smack in the middle of it, which is one of the best museums in the country, full of Van Gogh, Rembrandt, etc.
Must away, and check on the toilet progress.
I'm not one for really focusing on the content of the toilet once one has used it, but I did notice that the Dutch toilet has what the book calls an "inspection shelf" upon which one's, ahem, waste sits prior to the flushing action. So as to provide an environment for, well, inspection. Interesting, no? Or, perhaps, as my mum said, revolting.
So I commented on this to Xander, who laughed heartily and said, yes, he didn't notice it really until the US, where we certainly do not even discuss bowel movements, thank you very much, much less actually look at them. Unless you are Al Bundy or Homer Simpson.
Today, Xander and I went into the city centre to run some errands, one of which was to pick up some "manly tools", as Xander puts it, for a couple of projects in the apartment. When we get home, he completes one successfully, and the other involves unscrewing the base of the toilet and caulking around the bottom. I hear a loud crack during this process and a loud expletive in English, one that begins with F and ends with K. The toilet, it seems, has lost a piece of porcelain. So off to the hardware store to purchase a new one. And this time Xander came home with a "deep flow" toilet, a la USA! How nice not to have to look at the product of my very efficient digestive system.
That project has morphed into a bit of a monster, and is still ongoing as I write this. But in his usual good-natured manner, Xander is doing it with a smile, with only the occasional uttering of his favorite English swear word.
So this weekend was lots of fun, mostly laying around (yes, watching the Discovery Channel and History Channel), cooking, some running.
We went out to meet some of his friends in Spijkenisse for some beers, and that was actually a ton of fun. Of course, Xander and I laughed the whole time, and I had fun chatting to his friends, too, who are amused most of all when I make fun of my ineptitude when it comes to pronouncing the Dutch g, pronounced "khay" with that sound that sounds like you have something stuck in your throat, a similar sound to the one in French which has evaded me since I've tried to say "Francais".
Sunday we went out again, as Xander is off work for a bit. We met Sander and Camilla again, and a couple of other friends, one of whom was this guy who immediately showed contempt for America and Americans. I was trying to ignore it, and simply discuss his feelings with him, but it was getting tiresome and the beer was flowing. So I said something to Xander, like the guy couldn't hear it across the table, and of course he did, and I felt like shit that I couldn't keep my big mouth shut as usual and just simply let him vent. He so wanted to find fault with everything, and I should have let him. It's only ignorance and small-mindedness that allows him to think this way. I mean, he's a HUGE South Park and Simpsons fan. I know those shows are a little disparaging about, well, everything, but they are American, after all. It was just frustrating. It's hard enough being in a new place with no friends or job or connection except for your boyfriend, who is in fact amazing, but you do feel sort of without a net sometimes. And you don't speak the language, etc etc, and you're just tired of this holier-than-thou attitude about America. I mean, yeah, I don't agree with what is going on now, and the war is completely out of control, and we were lied to about Iraq when we were most vulnerable, and I am one of the majority of Americans who want things to change. But I also know that, for example, the Dutch in the 17th century were running around enslaving people, trading spices, blowing up warships, etc. No one is free from blame. And it's okay to disagree with policies and to voice that disagreement, but don't take it out on a single person, the first time you meet her, and keep at her for an hour and a half. You know?
Ok, enough ranting. But I must say, he was the first Dutch person who has acted anything but friendly (if we understand one another, which is a whole other story) to me, so it's not like I feel unwelcome. I just think it made me think about how I react to people like that, that I should simply not let it bother me. I'm working on it!! One day at a time.
Really looking forward to Belgium this weekend, Xander and I are headed to Bruges on Friday and Brussels on Saturday. I am hoping to gain 5 pounds. Beer, beer, beer, chocolate, moules frites, etc etc. Come on! It's like the European version of New Orleans for me: all of my favorite foods in one place. If you call beer a food. Which I do. We may go to this National Park on Wednesday of this week, with the Kruller-Moller (I think that's the name) museum smack in the middle of it, which is one of the best museums in the country, full of Van Gogh, Rembrandt, etc.
Must away, and check on the toilet progress.
Friday, July 20, 2007
Sex, Drugs, and Canals
Where else but Amsterdam? I headed to the metro in Spijkenisse with my backpack on Wednesday morning, and when I got to Rotterdam Centraal Station half an hour later, I jumped on the next train to Amsterdam Centraal Station. An hour and a half later, I was in Amsterdam! Fun!
I wandered around as I slowly made my way to my hotel, trying to not be killed by the surprisingly agressive bike riders as I did. Jesus!
I was initially a tad embarrassed that I was staying at the Marriott Amsterdam, as it is a tad generic, but I tell you what, when I checked in with charming staff and opened my door to a well-air-conditioned, huge fluffy-bed containing clean nice Marriott-esque room, I was damn glad I did. And, to boot, it was free on my points! Thank you, publishing and many many repetitive evenings in Courtyard by Marriott slaving away at my Outlook inbox with one of those tiny bottles of Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Savignon that you can buy at the front desk! Who knew I would be here now?
Then, out to find some lunch. I ate near the Museumplein, as I was headed to the Rijksmuseum after filling my belly. At the cafe, I asked for a De Koninck, which I saw a poster for on the wall. I had had this delicious Belgian beer at one of our favorite places in New York (R.I.P. the Meatpacking location), Markt. The waiter told me that the weather was too warm and they didn't have De Koninck now. ??? This I don't understand. Perhaps I'm a peasant, and don't know how to properly drink beer according to the seasons, and I should be drinking a (bleccch) Blue Moon or (too sweet) Hoegaarden. But I still don't understand why the hell the Europeans don't let me have a strong beer in the bloody summer. Anyway, I asked for a not-Amstel or Heineken and I got a delicious Belgian beer of another ilk. So it all worked out.
There was a wait at the Rijksmuseum as the space is small (they are doing extensive renovations and thus a smaller portion of the museum is open and also a smaller piece of their world-renowned collection is on display...sniff), so I decided to head off in search of the American Apparel that I knew was in the cool Jordaan neighborhood. Sad, I know, but I really needed some "bumming around the apartment" gear and I knew AA was the place. It's really hard to pack for a trip of unknown duration and be able to actually carry it with you. So I find that I'm buying more stuff than I thought I would. Who wouldn't, at the delightful exhange rate?
Anyway, found the American Apparel and found it very heart-warming to shop somewhere familiar after almost 6 weeks of newness. Then hit a "brown cafe", so known because they are so old that the walls are stained with cigarette smoke and years of bar-ness. Had a koffie at a table with a chair occupied by a soundly sleeping cat. What is it about a sleeping cat in a place that is so reassuring? A custom I think we should adopt in the US is providing a biscuit with each cup of coffee. It turns it into more of an event. But the way we drink coffee is entirely different too, buying big-ass coffees and taking them with us. Our culture is much more action-oriented, where as the Dutch, indeed, the Europeans, value sitting and communicating. Thus, the biscuit with the coffee.
Then off to the Anne Frank Huis for some uplifting tourism. I waited, yes, an hour, but was entertained by the Americans behind me INCESSANTLY TALKING. I mean, they seemed like well-traveled, well-informed folk (they were discussing Daniel Radcliffe in Equus in London), but dude, SHUT UP. I think I've been traveling too long.
So the Anne Frank Huis was pretty rad, they recreated the warehouse and storage rooms for Otto Frank's business, which was on the bottom two floors of the house on the canal, and they also recreated the hiding place upstairs. They even had Anne Frank's original diaries enclosed in cases! It was so sad, though, to be there and see how these people lived. If you can call that living. Every time I see that sweet grinning little girl's face it reminds me how evil people can be...sigh.
Then off to drown my sadness in retail therapy, shopping in the little antique shops as I wandered back to the hotel, exhausted from the walking and the heat (it was actually sunny--shocker--all day). I buoyed myself with a Heineken from the mini-bar in my room and got dressed to eat some Thai food, yippee! Spicy stuff! Not that there is a real shortage in Holland, a country that once had Indonesia as a colony, but I certainly cannot hit the speed dial on my cell phone for Wild Ginger (if I want pad thai) or Lemongrass (if I want panang curry). If I miss anything about New York living, the ready availability of food BROUGHT TO YOUR DOOR is it. Anyway, so I ate a delicious meal at a quirky Thai restaurant with a friendly waiter and a friendly neighbor at the table next to me as he waited for his dinner companion. Again, friendly folk! Home to hotel to snuggle in really really really awesome bed with feather bed on mattress. Must get one. Made optimistic wake-up call request for 10 AM.
Woke up at 8:30. Damn it! Wanted to sleep in. Barely made it to lobby for free cup of coffee and exhanged a few words (friendly ones) with a woman from D.C and a Samsonite roller bag. All of a sudden I was immediately transported to those mornings at the Hampton Inn/Courtyard with my roller bag waiting for the sales rep and reviewing my PowerPoints. I hurried off.
Back upstairs, got ready, packed, checked out, checked backpack with Concierge (who, incidentally, was very attractive). Off to Rijksmuseum before other tourists thwarted my plan.
It was awesome, and I learned so much about the Dutch. Suffice it to say, in the 17th century, they were badasses. I mean, they were blowing up Spanish ships, enslaving people, trading spices, you name it. And they are freaking tiny. I saw beautiful Delft pottery, which I knew was a ripoff from the Chinese stuff, but did you know that the reason the Delft potters took it over was because of a war in China in the 1600's and saw an opportunity to make some serious $$$? Smart. I saw a lot of beautiful paintings, too, by Vermeer and Rembrandt. I must say I prefer Vermeer and intend to see more of it. Girl with a Pearl Earring is in Den Haag in a museum there, and is on my list to see. In the gift shop, bought a couple of books on the Dutch, one more factual but with a great design and concept, and one called "My 'Dam Life" written by a guy who moves to Holland (Amsterdam) for three years. That one is hilarious already, and is making me really appreciate the Dutch.
Lunch at a Surinam-ese (?) restaurant, roti kip, located in what I take to be the "ethnic"(read: dodgy) part of town, was delicious. Surinam, of course, another Dutch colony back in the day. Now off to the Albert Cuyp market, which was AWESOME!!
Kaas (cheese), frites, fruit, boobie- and penis-shaped chocolates (you know I couldn't resist those), buddhas, antiques, socks (awww, like the NYC street fairs...made me nostalgic), deodorants and shampoos, kitschy Amsterdam souvenirs, etc etc. So much fun! Of course I had to pick up some Old Amsterdam cheese. Folks, if you see this in your local cheese aisle, pick some up, trust me. Aged Gouda is good, but this stuff is like crack cocaine. After a coffee at a cafe being taunted my intermittent raindrops, back to the hotel to pick up my bag and make my way back to Centraal Station.
But not before stopping by the Red Light District! I was so exhausted, but couldn't leave without seeing at least one lady in a window. And I did, right after walking past the Oude Kerk (old church), which is from the 14th century, I believe--I was kinda just walking and then--boom!--chicks in bikinis behind plate-glass windows looking all sexy. Strange! One was on a cell phone, too, Xander says chatting with her pimp. So you just pick one like a puppy. Bizarre. Then I headed to the Station, walking past coffee shops with wafts of marijuana coming out the door and sex shops with DVDs with VERY NAUGHTY video stills on the covers...and then past the Koninklijk Paleis and Nieuwe Kerk (new church, we're talking 15th century, so only "new" when compared to the Oude Kerk). So the Paleis is the official residence of the Queen Beatrix of Orange, but she actually lives in the Hague (Den Haag). I don't blame her, as the "Paleis" is the old city hall and it looks downright depressing. I assume it is also very dirty.
And on the train to come home to Xander, who is apparently very tired for a long, typically frantic exercise. This country needs air-conditioning, I'll close with that. I know it's cold and wet most of the time, but it isn't all of the time. Folks.
06 3078 xxxx
That's my new Dutch cell phone number, without the last four digits, as this is a public blog. Don't panic, friends, this does not mean that I am here for good, it's just a great way to be able to oh, communicate, while I'm here. It's prepaid, and it's pink! What else does a girl need?
I got said pink cell phone in the Spijkenisse city center when I met Camilla, Sander's (Xander's best friend) girlfriend from Norway, for lunch on Tuesday. My first social outing in Holland without Xander! Lunch was fun, then she showed me where she got her phone. The guy in the cell phone store was very funny and spoke English. I find the Dutch to be generally very funny and sarcastic. Then, to celebrate the Dutch sense of humor and my new pink cell phone, I went shopping at H&M. And scored, big-time. I don't know if it is because the stuff isn't as picked over (the Europeans have had H&M longer than we have in the US) as it is in America, or if they actually have better stuff. Anyway, a successful trip to Spijkenisse.
So Xander was staying at the base on Tuesday night because he had an exercise the next day and had to be ready to go at 5:30 AM. So I Skyped with my mum, ate leftovers, and watched television dramas which was a nice change from bad sitcom reruns like the Nanny and Dharma and Greg, Xander's usual weeknight viewing. It's a delight. Xander and I also chatted that night and he told me that he was going to be on exercise the last three weeks of September and I might want to go home before that to the US, lest I be lonely while he was gone. And I initially thought that was probably a good idea. But as I watched TV on Xander's couch and saw the sunset from his windows, I really felt at home here. And thinking about leaving him now is just too much, I just do it. So I have decided to leave my ticket at the end of September for now, but I'm likely going to stay into October. I'm not sure what I will feel like in a month or 6 weeks, but right now, I can't even think about not being with Xander...
I got said pink cell phone in the Spijkenisse city center when I met Camilla, Sander's (Xander's best friend) girlfriend from Norway, for lunch on Tuesday. My first social outing in Holland without Xander! Lunch was fun, then she showed me where she got her phone. The guy in the cell phone store was very funny and spoke English. I find the Dutch to be generally very funny and sarcastic. Then, to celebrate the Dutch sense of humor and my new pink cell phone, I went shopping at H&M. And scored, big-time. I don't know if it is because the stuff isn't as picked over (the Europeans have had H&M longer than we have in the US) as it is in America, or if they actually have better stuff. Anyway, a successful trip to Spijkenisse.
So Xander was staying at the base on Tuesday night because he had an exercise the next day and had to be ready to go at 5:30 AM. So I Skyped with my mum, ate leftovers, and watched television dramas which was a nice change from bad sitcom reruns like the Nanny and Dharma and Greg, Xander's usual weeknight viewing. It's a delight. Xander and I also chatted that night and he told me that he was going to be on exercise the last three weeks of September and I might want to go home before that to the US, lest I be lonely while he was gone. And I initially thought that was probably a good idea. But as I watched TV on Xander's couch and saw the sunset from his windows, I really felt at home here. And thinking about leaving him now is just too much, I just do it. So I have decided to leave my ticket at the end of September for now, but I'm likely going to stay into October. I'm not sure what I will feel like in a month or 6 weeks, but right now, I can't even think about not being with Xander...
Monday, July 16, 2007
Discovery Channel and History Channel: our weekend
Saturday, we got up and watched yet more Discovery Channel and Hustle and Flow because it had to go back to the video store that day. It was an interesting movie, filmed in Memphis and everyone was very sweaty and moist all the time. Realistic in that sense.
Then we got ready to go to Xander's dad (biological) and his wife's place (her name is Siska). They live on this lovely quiet island (but it's big, so you can't see the North Sea from everwhere--it's like 10 minutes away) and in a house that reminded me a lot of an English one--the garden in the back, the windows, small, etc. So Xander had psyched me out about Siska, he said she doesn't like anyone and she's hard to win over. And I was kind of tired by then, feeling exhausted by all of it, the being in a new place, trying to learn at least SOME Dutch but feeling completely overwhelmed by the differences, meeting new people, etc etc. But I rallied, and guess what? Even though they couldn't speak hardly any English and Xander had to translate, Siska liked me right away! Ha! They were very nice, too, and I see why Xander is so laid back, his dad is, too. We had a beer there and looked around their cute garden (they are growing tomatoes, blackberries, zucchini, basil, dill of course, they are Dutch, etc), and then we headed home.
Once we got home I had my first minor breakdown, Xander knew right away that I was really tired, and that I was just overwhelmed by everything, it's hard being somewhere new where I don't know anyone and I can't speak the language. It's a lot to process. He was very sweet and we cuddled, and I realized that somehow I'm still managing to be hard on myself and push myself to be settled right away, and that I'm a bit scared, too--I'm overwhelmed by how strongly I feel for Xander. I think I just can't believe I met him and he's so lovely.
As food solves all ills, had some dinner that Xander cooked, steaks, potatoes, green beans wrapped in bacon, wine. Very delicious!! Of course. Then we went to his cousin's boyfriend's birthday party. I was dreading this, too (more family?!!), but it turned out to be just what I needed. I hadn't had any social interaction at all to speak of except for with Xander's parents, and this was the first time I was with people around my own age (they are a little younger). And the difference in their English skills was striking. They could carry on whole conversations easily--obviously, TV in English came onto the scene when they were kids. Very interesting. So I chatted to some really nice girls about New York and about Gray's Anatomy (!!), and Xander's cousin, Marjolein, was very nice and has a cute place with her boyfriend. We decided to have dinner all of us sometime, and exchanged email addresses. I also got another girl's email address, too, Mirjam. So that was a lot of fun, actually.
Sunday we didn't do much of anything, just watched TV (learned all about that evil bastard Stalin) and, inspired by talk of maniacal leaders, planned a bit of Germany stuff. We went and rented a couple of movies, then came home to watch them when Sander called, he wanted us to go and see this new place he got, kind of a farm house. We went over there to see it and so I could meet Camilla, Sander's girlfriend from Norway who is living here now. The place was kind of strange, very big, and Camilla didn't seem that happy about it. It was a bit isolated, I understand why she wasn't happy. Anyway, she's very nice, and I got her email too so we can get together in Spijkenisse for lunch. We went for dinner together, as the grocery stores are closed on Sunday here. Dinner was actually delicious, it was in a little place in a little village. I had a great salad, and learned how to ask for the check in Dutch. Fun! I realized, being out with others, how many inside jokes Xander and I have already. We are kind of in our own little world. But again, great to hang out with people socially and realize there is a world out there!!
Came home and watched Letters from Iwo Jima, and cried and told Xander that he had to get out of the military and he said I only have a little longer...but he is definitely leaving. I'm so, so relieved. He's just such a cutie, and I hate that he could be in danger at work. Anyway, off to bed so Xander could get up at sparrow fart for work.
Today, I'm waiting for the storm to slow down so I can go shopping at the grocery store. I've already moved around the furniture in the living room, and I've got ideas for elsewhere, too! Poor Xander...
Then we got ready to go to Xander's dad (biological) and his wife's place (her name is Siska). They live on this lovely quiet island (but it's big, so you can't see the North Sea from everwhere--it's like 10 minutes away) and in a house that reminded me a lot of an English one--the garden in the back, the windows, small, etc. So Xander had psyched me out about Siska, he said she doesn't like anyone and she's hard to win over. And I was kind of tired by then, feeling exhausted by all of it, the being in a new place, trying to learn at least SOME Dutch but feeling completely overwhelmed by the differences, meeting new people, etc etc. But I rallied, and guess what? Even though they couldn't speak hardly any English and Xander had to translate, Siska liked me right away! Ha! They were very nice, too, and I see why Xander is so laid back, his dad is, too. We had a beer there and looked around their cute garden (they are growing tomatoes, blackberries, zucchini, basil, dill of course, they are Dutch, etc), and then we headed home.
Once we got home I had my first minor breakdown, Xander knew right away that I was really tired, and that I was just overwhelmed by everything, it's hard being somewhere new where I don't know anyone and I can't speak the language. It's a lot to process. He was very sweet and we cuddled, and I realized that somehow I'm still managing to be hard on myself and push myself to be settled right away, and that I'm a bit scared, too--I'm overwhelmed by how strongly I feel for Xander. I think I just can't believe I met him and he's so lovely.
As food solves all ills, had some dinner that Xander cooked, steaks, potatoes, green beans wrapped in bacon, wine. Very delicious!! Of course. Then we went to his cousin's boyfriend's birthday party. I was dreading this, too (more family?!!), but it turned out to be just what I needed. I hadn't had any social interaction at all to speak of except for with Xander's parents, and this was the first time I was with people around my own age (they are a little younger). And the difference in their English skills was striking. They could carry on whole conversations easily--obviously, TV in English came onto the scene when they were kids. Very interesting. So I chatted to some really nice girls about New York and about Gray's Anatomy (!!), and Xander's cousin, Marjolein, was very nice and has a cute place with her boyfriend. We decided to have dinner all of us sometime, and exchanged email addresses. I also got another girl's email address, too, Mirjam. So that was a lot of fun, actually.
Sunday we didn't do much of anything, just watched TV (learned all about that evil bastard Stalin) and, inspired by talk of maniacal leaders, planned a bit of Germany stuff. We went and rented a couple of movies, then came home to watch them when Sander called, he wanted us to go and see this new place he got, kind of a farm house. We went over there to see it and so I could meet Camilla, Sander's girlfriend from Norway who is living here now. The place was kind of strange, very big, and Camilla didn't seem that happy about it. It was a bit isolated, I understand why she wasn't happy. Anyway, she's very nice, and I got her email too so we can get together in Spijkenisse for lunch. We went for dinner together, as the grocery stores are closed on Sunday here. Dinner was actually delicious, it was in a little place in a little village. I had a great salad, and learned how to ask for the check in Dutch. Fun! I realized, being out with others, how many inside jokes Xander and I have already. We are kind of in our own little world. But again, great to hang out with people socially and realize there is a world out there!!
Came home and watched Letters from Iwo Jima, and cried and told Xander that he had to get out of the military and he said I only have a little longer...but he is definitely leaving. I'm so, so relieved. He's just such a cutie, and I hate that he could be in danger at work. Anyway, off to bed so Xander could get up at sparrow fart for work.
Today, I'm waiting for the storm to slow down so I can go shopping at the grocery store. I've already moved around the furniture in the living room, and I've got ideas for elsewhere, too! Poor Xander...
My first Friday in Holland
On Friday, we woke up late, watched Discovery Channel and laughed, and then got ready to go to Ikea and into Rotterdam to look at hiking/camping stuff for Germany. Xander had never been to Ikea before, and had a bad opinion of it. But guess what, he actually liked it! We got him new plates, wine glasses, silverware, lamp shade, salad bowl, etc, and it was like €70. We also looked around at the kitchen showroom, Xander wants to redo his kitchen but is waiting to see what happens first...also, FYI: Ikea is pronounced "eee-kay-uh" here.
So then we drove to Rotterdam for lunch. We ate at this Moroccan place called Bazar, and it was delicious. We sat outside and looked at all the people walking by. There is certainly a large variety of people in that city. Xander says they have one of the most diverse collections of ethnicities there. I wouldn't doubt it after being there that day. Then we walked to the shopping area and went to the outdoors store (is that what you call it?) to look at hiking boots for me (yes, friends, believe it). We actually bought me a pair that were on sale for 50% off, they are apparently a really good brand. My feet look very tiny in them. They're kind of cute, actually. Though the yellow pair were cuter. But not on sale, so I got the blue ones. We also looked at backpacks and tents and stuff, but are going back to buy those. Rotterdam has a bunch of little food stalls that you can buy food from, so we got some fresh fruit to snack on. We found a body shop, too, so I got some hair product to keep my really frizzy hair in this weather under control. I really noticed in The Body Shop how shocked people are when I speak English to them, speak English to Xander, Xander speaks English back to me, and Xander speaks Dutch to the people working in the stores. They just can't compute how we would be dating, I suppose? It's really funny, actually.
After more street food (egg rolls this time) and a bit more shopping (we found a store with Hindu/Buddhist-type stuff, I got my favorite Nag Champa incense yeah!!), we got back into the car because we had to come home, eat, and head to the North Sea Jazz Festival, which was back in Rotterdam again. I don't know if it's Xander's special forces training on how to drive when in pursuit or being pursued, but he drives a bit like a maniac. He is trying to control it, but I still end up car sick by the time we get home!!! So we ate some dinner, unpacked the car of our new stuff, and got ready for the Festival. Jumped back in the car, drove to the Metro stop before the place where they are having the Festival (called Ahoy!, isn't that cute?), and jumped on the Metro. I have been on lots of Metro systems all over the place, and this one is the most complicated ticket system I have ever encountered. I have it under control, somewhat, but it is very difficult and Xander agrees.
Anyway, Xander's sister-in-law to be, Emerlee, works at Ahoy! and has left tickets for us at the desk though we have to pay, still. When we get in, it's pretty cool, they have like 12 different venues and you can walk around to any of them and listen. The seating looks like it has been occupied for a long time, though, so we stand. There's also, of course, beer, but here it is Grolsch not Bud. Funny. We first listened to the Roots for a bit, and that was tons of fun. Then Emerlee came to meet us so that I could meet her and we could give her the money for the tickets. She is engaged to Xander's brother Martijn (pronounced "mar-tie-yun")and is a really nice gal. We went to listen to Katie Melua, who I really liked. It was really hot in the place, though, it didn't seem like they had A/C? With the price of the tickets, they had some nerve not to have the A/C crankin'...I tell you what, there would have been a riot in Texas. We went upstairs to see where Emerlee worked and had a coffee (did you know that the Dutch drink more coffee than any other European country except Denmark?). After chatting for a bit, we went to the roof where we had a cocktail and listened to some DJs. There were a lot of Americans or at least English-speakers there. I think this Festival is a pretty big deal, as we overheard an Irish girl at Bazar say that she came to R'dam just for the weekend for the Jazz Festival.
So then back downstairs for Al Green and Jazz at Lincoln Center featuring Wynton Marsalis (!!--I never saw them even when I was IN NYC, and now I see them in Rotterdam. strange...). Xander and I liked the Lincoln Center Jazz the best, it felt so civilized and sophisticated.
We decided, after listening to that for a bit, to head home. We were walking out, and saw the huge group of people waiting to get into Buena Vista Social Club (yes, BVSC). We didn't go because it was like €50 extra! The nerve. Anyway, so we headed home.
So then we drove to Rotterdam for lunch. We ate at this Moroccan place called Bazar, and it was delicious. We sat outside and looked at all the people walking by. There is certainly a large variety of people in that city. Xander says they have one of the most diverse collections of ethnicities there. I wouldn't doubt it after being there that day. Then we walked to the shopping area and went to the outdoors store (is that what you call it?) to look at hiking boots for me (yes, friends, believe it). We actually bought me a pair that were on sale for 50% off, they are apparently a really good brand. My feet look very tiny in them. They're kind of cute, actually. Though the yellow pair were cuter. But not on sale, so I got the blue ones. We also looked at backpacks and tents and stuff, but are going back to buy those. Rotterdam has a bunch of little food stalls that you can buy food from, so we got some fresh fruit to snack on. We found a body shop, too, so I got some hair product to keep my really frizzy hair in this weather under control. I really noticed in The Body Shop how shocked people are when I speak English to them, speak English to Xander, Xander speaks English back to me, and Xander speaks Dutch to the people working in the stores. They just can't compute how we would be dating, I suppose? It's really funny, actually.
After more street food (egg rolls this time) and a bit more shopping (we found a store with Hindu/Buddhist-type stuff, I got my favorite Nag Champa incense yeah!!), we got back into the car because we had to come home, eat, and head to the North Sea Jazz Festival, which was back in Rotterdam again. I don't know if it's Xander's special forces training on how to drive when in pursuit or being pursued, but he drives a bit like a maniac. He is trying to control it, but I still end up car sick by the time we get home!!! So we ate some dinner, unpacked the car of our new stuff, and got ready for the Festival. Jumped back in the car, drove to the Metro stop before the place where they are having the Festival (called Ahoy!, isn't that cute?), and jumped on the Metro. I have been on lots of Metro systems all over the place, and this one is the most complicated ticket system I have ever encountered. I have it under control, somewhat, but it is very difficult and Xander agrees.
Anyway, Xander's sister-in-law to be, Emerlee, works at Ahoy! and has left tickets for us at the desk though we have to pay, still. When we get in, it's pretty cool, they have like 12 different venues and you can walk around to any of them and listen. The seating looks like it has been occupied for a long time, though, so we stand. There's also, of course, beer, but here it is Grolsch not Bud. Funny. We first listened to the Roots for a bit, and that was tons of fun. Then Emerlee came to meet us so that I could meet her and we could give her the money for the tickets. She is engaged to Xander's brother Martijn (pronounced "mar-tie-yun")and is a really nice gal. We went to listen to Katie Melua, who I really liked. It was really hot in the place, though, it didn't seem like they had A/C? With the price of the tickets, they had some nerve not to have the A/C crankin'...I tell you what, there would have been a riot in Texas. We went upstairs to see where Emerlee worked and had a coffee (did you know that the Dutch drink more coffee than any other European country except Denmark?). After chatting for a bit, we went to the roof where we had a cocktail and listened to some DJs. There were a lot of Americans or at least English-speakers there. I think this Festival is a pretty big deal, as we overheard an Irish girl at Bazar say that she came to R'dam just for the weekend for the Jazz Festival.
So then back downstairs for Al Green and Jazz at Lincoln Center featuring Wynton Marsalis (!!--I never saw them even when I was IN NYC, and now I see them in Rotterdam. strange...). Xander and I liked the Lincoln Center Jazz the best, it felt so civilized and sophisticated.
We decided, after listening to that for a bit, to head home. We were walking out, and saw the huge group of people waiting to get into Buena Vista Social Club (yes, BVSC). We didn't go because it was like €50 extra! The nerve. Anyway, so we headed home.
Thursday, July 12, 2007
Settling into Holland
So, this week has been nice and relaxing. It's good that I don't feel like doing much of anything, because the weather is consistently inconsistent. Mostly cloudy with intermittent rain showers. And cool. It's nice to wear a long-sleeve shirt, though, I tell you what. Sorry about that, my NYC friends, I know you guys are experiencing a hot spell over there...
Most of the days this week have been waking up with Xander at 5:50 AM (gulp!) when he gets up to go to the base, and then falling back asleep until 8 or 9. Coffee, breakfast (today I had the chocolate sprinkles on toast, done in the new toaster I got in Rotterdam! Exciting!), CNN International solely for the English language dose. I'm, not surprisingly I suppose, totally disinterested in world events. I slowly just disengaged from society over the course of the past month, and am enjoying the coccoon of Uranusstraat 40d. Then some email/bill paying/blogging, and it's at least lunch time. A run around the area, or some yoga, lunch, and then to the grocery store to try to decipher the labels. I've gotten pretty good, with my new vocabulary including kaas (cheese), groen paprika (green pepper), kip (chicken), and zalm (salmon). I've worked out a new trick of writing my shopping list in English, then looking up the Dutch words and writing them next to the English. It's actually fun.
So at about 5 I start dinner and Xander usually gets home around 5:45 or 6 PM, with a big grin on his face, so happy to be home. His grin, of course, matches mine, as I've done not much else but pine for him all day. We eat my surprisingly good meals (considering that I am using American measurements usually and have to convert them to grams and liters) and then flop on the couch or chat. It's really lovely, and the cooking has given me a bit of structure to the day. I knew I would need that in some form or other, and am happy to say that cooking has provided it. I love cooking, and I love to do it for someone who is so damn cute.
Today Xander's mum came by. We bonded in Rotterdam on Tuesday, having a fun time chatting (as best we could with the language barrier, but she was enjoying "practicing her English" on me) and buying things for Xander's apartment. I still have a few items to purchase, but we're slowly getting there! She also bought me a "Dutch for Dummies" book w/audio CD and said that next time we hung out I could speak Dutch to her. Gulp. Anyway, so today she brought me by an old cell phone of Xander's brother Martijn that I can use to call Xander and her, etc. It's great because I feel a bit cut off and it's very expensive to use my phone and for people here to call it. So that was really nice of her.
Must go and shower (no, haven't done so yet at 4:40 PM ha ha) before I begin dinner...more soon!
Most of the days this week have been waking up with Xander at 5:50 AM (gulp!) when he gets up to go to the base, and then falling back asleep until 8 or 9. Coffee, breakfast (today I had the chocolate sprinkles on toast, done in the new toaster I got in Rotterdam! Exciting!), CNN International solely for the English language dose. I'm, not surprisingly I suppose, totally disinterested in world events. I slowly just disengaged from society over the course of the past month, and am enjoying the coccoon of Uranusstraat 40d. Then some email/bill paying/blogging, and it's at least lunch time. A run around the area, or some yoga, lunch, and then to the grocery store to try to decipher the labels. I've gotten pretty good, with my new vocabulary including kaas (cheese), groen paprika (green pepper), kip (chicken), and zalm (salmon). I've worked out a new trick of writing my shopping list in English, then looking up the Dutch words and writing them next to the English. It's actually fun.
So at about 5 I start dinner and Xander usually gets home around 5:45 or 6 PM, with a big grin on his face, so happy to be home. His grin, of course, matches mine, as I've done not much else but pine for him all day. We eat my surprisingly good meals (considering that I am using American measurements usually and have to convert them to grams and liters) and then flop on the couch or chat. It's really lovely, and the cooking has given me a bit of structure to the day. I knew I would need that in some form or other, and am happy to say that cooking has provided it. I love cooking, and I love to do it for someone who is so damn cute.
Today Xander's mum came by. We bonded in Rotterdam on Tuesday, having a fun time chatting (as best we could with the language barrier, but she was enjoying "practicing her English" on me) and buying things for Xander's apartment. I still have a few items to purchase, but we're slowly getting there! She also bought me a "Dutch for Dummies" book w/audio CD and said that next time we hung out I could speak Dutch to her. Gulp. Anyway, so today she brought me by an old cell phone of Xander's brother Martijn that I can use to call Xander and her, etc. It's great because I feel a bit cut off and it's very expensive to use my phone and for people here to call it. So that was really nice of her.
Must go and shower (no, haven't done so yet at 4:40 PM ha ha) before I begin dinner...more soon!
Monday, July 9, 2007
I arrived in Amsterdam on Saturday, right on time. As we landed, everything looked so lovely, clean, and green. I already felt relieved, such a change from hot, dry, dirty Madrid, where I had just come from.
Xander picked me up inside, and it was so, so lovely to see him. He is the cutest thing ever. As we were driving, it looked so different than last time I came...so lush and alive. January was beautiful in a different way, but austere. It's very cool here, too, 18 degrees as opposed to 40 in Granada. Such a nice change. We came home and ate dinner, Xander had bought a couple of meals from the grocery store, they were actually really good. We drank the bottle of wine that I brought with me from Duty Free--a bottle of Spanish Crianza. He had also bought a bunch of cheeses, he knows the way to my heart! We rented a movie, but we ended up just talking until late, all about Buddhism and meditation, etc.
Sunday, we sat around and ate breakfast and chatted forever until we forced ourselves to shower. Xander walked me to the metro stop that will take me into Rotterdam, then we came back and drove to Rotterdam to meet his parents for dinner. We went to Hotel New York, which Xander took me to when I came last time for a coffee. It was where the Holland-America line docked way back when, and a lot of immigrants came through there. So I met his parents...they are very nice people. It was a bit tough for me, as there was a bit of a language barrier. But I think we did pretty well, and I'll get along with his mum just fine. She is into architecture and art, so we can chat about that. After dinner, we went to their house for a drink and it was cute. They have two cats, the older one doesn't like the newer younger one, so it's actually funny to watch. And Xander's mum offered to take me into Rotterdam tomorrow, so I'm meeting her at the metro station at 10 AM. So that will be interesting, and good to have someone show me how to get there.
Xander had to get up at 10 to 6 today to get ready for work, he was out the door by 6:30. I got up with him and then went back to bed until about 8, when the workers who are painting the building started banging on the roof. Apparently, Holland is not like Italy--they actually work!! I pottered around a bit and then went for a run, as I'm feeling a bit stuffed full of patatas bravas, pimientos, and many, many glasses of crianza and/or cava. It was so beautiful! It was cool, and a bit overcast, perfect for running, and people were out walking their dogs and riding their bikes. I ran along the river that runs behind Xander's apartment building, and then cut off under the highway, and back there it was so pretty--horses, sheep, chickens everywhere, people's little homes with lush gardens. Canals, more bikes, all very green. It's so different than New York, and I think it's just what I needed. We'll see how long I can chill out here, but for now, it's perfect. Came back and already started cleaning up. Started with the kitchen and laundry area. I have also already started a list of items to buy for the place. So far it includes: soap dish, coathangers, new lampshade for bedroom, new windowshade for bedroom, reading lamps for bedroom, new cutlery drainer, toaster, basket for bathroom supplies, and bath rug for the shower. Ikea, here we come.
OK, enough for today. I'm off to find a recipe to cook for dinner tonight, like a good girlfriend!
Xander picked me up inside, and it was so, so lovely to see him. He is the cutest thing ever. As we were driving, it looked so different than last time I came...so lush and alive. January was beautiful in a different way, but austere. It's very cool here, too, 18 degrees as opposed to 40 in Granada. Such a nice change. We came home and ate dinner, Xander had bought a couple of meals from the grocery store, they were actually really good. We drank the bottle of wine that I brought with me from Duty Free--a bottle of Spanish Crianza. He had also bought a bunch of cheeses, he knows the way to my heart! We rented a movie, but we ended up just talking until late, all about Buddhism and meditation, etc.
Sunday, we sat around and ate breakfast and chatted forever until we forced ourselves to shower. Xander walked me to the metro stop that will take me into Rotterdam, then we came back and drove to Rotterdam to meet his parents for dinner. We went to Hotel New York, which Xander took me to when I came last time for a coffee. It was where the Holland-America line docked way back when, and a lot of immigrants came through there. So I met his parents...they are very nice people. It was a bit tough for me, as there was a bit of a language barrier. But I think we did pretty well, and I'll get along with his mum just fine. She is into architecture and art, so we can chat about that. After dinner, we went to their house for a drink and it was cute. They have two cats, the older one doesn't like the newer younger one, so it's actually funny to watch. And Xander's mum offered to take me into Rotterdam tomorrow, so I'm meeting her at the metro station at 10 AM. So that will be interesting, and good to have someone show me how to get there.
Xander had to get up at 10 to 6 today to get ready for work, he was out the door by 6:30. I got up with him and then went back to bed until about 8, when the workers who are painting the building started banging on the roof. Apparently, Holland is not like Italy--they actually work!! I pottered around a bit and then went for a run, as I'm feeling a bit stuffed full of patatas bravas, pimientos, and many, many glasses of crianza and/or cava. It was so beautiful! It was cool, and a bit overcast, perfect for running, and people were out walking their dogs and riding their bikes. I ran along the river that runs behind Xander's apartment building, and then cut off under the highway, and back there it was so pretty--horses, sheep, chickens everywhere, people's little homes with lush gardens. Canals, more bikes, all very green. It's so different than New York, and I think it's just what I needed. We'll see how long I can chill out here, but for now, it's perfect. Came back and already started cleaning up. Started with the kitchen and laundry area. I have also already started a list of items to buy for the place. So far it includes: soap dish, coathangers, new lampshade for bedroom, new windowshade for bedroom, reading lamps for bedroom, new cutlery drainer, toaster, basket for bathroom supplies, and bath rug for the shower. Ikea, here we come.
OK, enough for today. I'm off to find a recipe to cook for dinner tonight, like a good girlfriend!
Friday, July 6, 2007
...so 40 degrees celsius is actually 104 degrees Fahrenheit.
No wonder I´m forced to take 2 and a half hour siestas here in Granada. I´m telling you, you would to. It is so, so hot here.
But lovely! I´m staying in this converted Moorish palace here in Granada, in the Aldalusian province--that´s in the South of Spain for those of you who haven´t been here. The part of the country that is what everyone associates ¨Spanish¨ with--bullfights, flamenco, etc etc. They actually have ¨bull tail¨on the menu, and I´m afraid to think about, much less ask, if that is really what it is.
So my hotel is very cute, all arched doorways, white walls, dark wood.
It´s in the Moorish barrio of Albaicín, which is all Medieval streets and up on a hill overlooking the Alhambra.
Well, I suppose actually the Alhambra overlooks IT, like the entire town, but you get the picture. There is a street in the Albaicín called Little Morocco with all of these tea houses and Moroccan wares. Cool.
I went to dinner last night at a place on the hill and ended up meeting a couple from Italy who are living in Brussels now. We all went to a Flamenco show, which turned out to be very authentic, apparently it was at a private club that is only open to the public on Thursdays. Mostly Flamenco guitar and singing, with a little dancing, but that certainly wasn´t the focus. Very cool stuff, but I don´t know how these guys get their voices to do that. It´s interesting too that a lot of the singing reminds me of some Arabic music. I assume that is from the Northern Africa influence? Anyone know? The singers ranged from 18 to (get this) 84. The 84-year-old was the cutest ever, gumming his way through the song. One woman only. So that was rad, but kept me out late.
This morning I got up early to hit the Alhambra before it got too hot. You have to do all of this reservation stuff to get into the actual Palacios Nazaries, which is what most people associate with the Alhambra. Or at least I did. But it´s this massive complex. I got there at 9:15 or so and did not leave until 1:30, and I whipped through the last bit. So it was quite the amazing place, as you would guess. I took 5,788 photos, or it feels that way, so I will upload some as soon as I get to Xander´s so you guys can check it out. I´m not sure that the big campaign to make it a Wonder of the World is so appropriate, but it is quite breathtaking.
Then, of course, a siesta. A long one today. I´m feeling very exhausted, from the traveling around and from trying to decipher where things might be all of the time. One thing I will forever appreciate is the excellent signage that we Americans employ to ensure that all people, even those not necessarily familiar with a place, know where to go.
So I fly to Xander´s tomorrow. I´m totally totally psyched, and ready to hang out with him and be in one place. The next time I travel, it will be with him. That makes me so happy...
But lovely! I´m staying in this converted Moorish palace here in Granada, in the Aldalusian province--that´s in the South of Spain for those of you who haven´t been here. The part of the country that is what everyone associates ¨Spanish¨ with--bullfights, flamenco, etc etc. They actually have ¨bull tail¨on the menu, and I´m afraid to think about, much less ask, if that is really what it is.
So my hotel is very cute, all arched doorways, white walls, dark wood.
It´s in the Moorish barrio of Albaicín, which is all Medieval streets and up on a hill overlooking the Alhambra.
Well, I suppose actually the Alhambra overlooks IT, like the entire town, but you get the picture. There is a street in the Albaicín called Little Morocco with all of these tea houses and Moroccan wares. Cool.
I went to dinner last night at a place on the hill and ended up meeting a couple from Italy who are living in Brussels now. We all went to a Flamenco show, which turned out to be very authentic, apparently it was at a private club that is only open to the public on Thursdays. Mostly Flamenco guitar and singing, with a little dancing, but that certainly wasn´t the focus. Very cool stuff, but I don´t know how these guys get their voices to do that. It´s interesting too that a lot of the singing reminds me of some Arabic music. I assume that is from the Northern Africa influence? Anyone know? The singers ranged from 18 to (get this) 84. The 84-year-old was the cutest ever, gumming his way through the song. One woman only. So that was rad, but kept me out late.
This morning I got up early to hit the Alhambra before it got too hot. You have to do all of this reservation stuff to get into the actual Palacios Nazaries, which is what most people associate with the Alhambra. Or at least I did. But it´s this massive complex. I got there at 9:15 or so and did not leave until 1:30, and I whipped through the last bit. So it was quite the amazing place, as you would guess. I took 5,788 photos, or it feels that way, so I will upload some as soon as I get to Xander´s so you guys can check it out. I´m not sure that the big campaign to make it a Wonder of the World is so appropriate, but it is quite breathtaking.
Then, of course, a siesta. A long one today. I´m feeling very exhausted, from the traveling around and from trying to decipher where things might be all of the time. One thing I will forever appreciate is the excellent signage that we Americans employ to ensure that all people, even those not necessarily familiar with a place, know where to go.
So I fly to Xander´s tomorrow. I´m totally totally psyched, and ready to hang out with him and be in one place. The next time I travel, it will be with him. That makes me so happy...
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Barcelona days 2-6
Ok, so I´ve been crap about keeping up with the blog, I know.
Suffice it to say that Barcelona is great. Though you can´t get a decent salad to save your life.
Fariba arrived on Friday finally after a long day or two days of getting harassed by Delta. Her luggage followed on Sunday. Which sucked for everyone...poor thing.
We managed to have fun anyway, eating our way through the city. Saturday we went to the Miro museum, a lovely space with a gorgeous rooftop with sculpture.
Miro is not my favorite, but I thought the space was perfect and it really showed his sense of humor. After the museum, we took a cable car over Montjuic, which was lovely as we had it to ourselves on the way.
On the way back, some Spaniards joined us, which means we had four people staring at us like we showed up from Pluto. That evening we had some delicious bargain-basement-priced Cava and delicious tapas, too.
Sunday was a late morning and some Gaudí viewing in l´Eixample area. He is a genius. I have never seen anything like it.
After a nap, it was off for more tapas and the most delicious white wine I have tasted in my life.
Monday: more Gaudí at the Park Güell.
And July has come in with all of its fury. It is now officially hot. But Gaudí continues to be amazing, even in a park, and later Fariba and I checked out one of his private homes that he built again in L'Eixample, a hotbed of Modernisme.
More tapas and wine that evening overlooking the Santa Maria del Mar.
Tuesday was time to hit the beach, so Fariba and I took the train which I swear was the slowest train on the face of the earth. However, even so, we got to Garraf in 40 minutes, the cutest little Mediterranean beach ever. We found a boy to rent chairs and and an umbrella from and settled in. Droopy and/or nonexistent boobs and huge pregnat-like bellies on men notwithstanding, it was lovely and the water clear and cool. We had lunch at a cafe overlooking the sea, rose with mussels and anchovies.
A Chinese guy came around offering massages and I had to partake of course. The fastest massage ever, but it was actually on my beach chair, which I can´t beat. Back to Barcelona, where we actually found a salad for dinner. Shocker.
Did I mention the Gray´s Anatomy episodes that were dubbed in Spanish that I watched for two hours? And my fab ankle-strap red sandals?
Today, I saw Gaudí's Sagrada Familia church and a Modernisme hospital. Sagrada Familia was crazy crazy, he is a genius.
They are still working on it, of course, and hope (!!) to be done by 2026, the 100-year anniversary of Gaudí's death. Not looking good.
The hospital, Hospital de Sant Pau, was built in many different buildings so that the patients could enjoy the grounds while being ill. Sounds lovely, but not so logical. They´re building another sterile but functional hospital nearby. Anyway, I was there with my Nikon and it was weird with my camera while people were waiting on their loved ones' diagnoses.
Then to Cal Pep, a famous seafood joint, for the 45,000 calorie lunch. Delicious, but shoot, I have to get my paws on some tofu and veggies ASAP.
That´s all for today. Off to Granada tomorrow and the Alhambra. More soon!
Suffice it to say that Barcelona is great. Though you can´t get a decent salad to save your life.
Fariba arrived on Friday finally after a long day or two days of getting harassed by Delta. Her luggage followed on Sunday. Which sucked for everyone...poor thing.
We managed to have fun anyway, eating our way through the city. Saturday we went to the Miro museum, a lovely space with a gorgeous rooftop with sculpture.
Miro is not my favorite, but I thought the space was perfect and it really showed his sense of humor. After the museum, we took a cable car over Montjuic, which was lovely as we had it to ourselves on the way.
On the way back, some Spaniards joined us, which means we had four people staring at us like we showed up from Pluto. That evening we had some delicious bargain-basement-priced Cava and delicious tapas, too.
Sunday was a late morning and some Gaudí viewing in l´Eixample area. He is a genius. I have never seen anything like it.
After a nap, it was off for more tapas and the most delicious white wine I have tasted in my life.
Monday: more Gaudí at the Park Güell.
And July has come in with all of its fury. It is now officially hot. But Gaudí continues to be amazing, even in a park, and later Fariba and I checked out one of his private homes that he built again in L'Eixample, a hotbed of Modernisme.
More tapas and wine that evening overlooking the Santa Maria del Mar.
Tuesday was time to hit the beach, so Fariba and I took the train which I swear was the slowest train on the face of the earth. However, even so, we got to Garraf in 40 minutes, the cutest little Mediterranean beach ever. We found a boy to rent chairs and and an umbrella from and settled in. Droopy and/or nonexistent boobs and huge pregnat-like bellies on men notwithstanding, it was lovely and the water clear and cool. We had lunch at a cafe overlooking the sea, rose with mussels and anchovies.
A Chinese guy came around offering massages and I had to partake of course. The fastest massage ever, but it was actually on my beach chair, which I can´t beat. Back to Barcelona, where we actually found a salad for dinner. Shocker.
Did I mention the Gray´s Anatomy episodes that were dubbed in Spanish that I watched for two hours? And my fab ankle-strap red sandals?
Today, I saw Gaudí's Sagrada Familia church and a Modernisme hospital. Sagrada Familia was crazy crazy, he is a genius.
They are still working on it, of course, and hope (!!) to be done by 2026, the 100-year anniversary of Gaudí's death. Not looking good.
The hospital, Hospital de Sant Pau, was built in many different buildings so that the patients could enjoy the grounds while being ill. Sounds lovely, but not so logical. They´re building another sterile but functional hospital nearby. Anyway, I was there with my Nikon and it was weird with my camera while people were waiting on their loved ones' diagnoses.
Then to Cal Pep, a famous seafood joint, for the 45,000 calorie lunch. Delicious, but shoot, I have to get my paws on some tofu and veggies ASAP.
That´s all for today. Off to Granada tomorrow and the Alhambra. More soon!
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